I'm in Istanbul and I want to wrıte an entry but this keyboard is so damn difficult and Turkish. I slept when I got to Heathrow on a long couch. I discovered that Boots sells anti-depressants or some sort of mood-altering herbal. I mailed a bunch of postcards (and this tıme, remembered to write different things for each). On the flight, I mostly slept, but my seat buddy was an American college girl on her way to an organic farm in the south of Turkey and she was a lot more nervous than I was. Maybe I had gotten all of my anxiety out the night before. We ended up taking the Metro together and I tried to be as Canadıanly helpful as possible.

As for Istanbul itself, I may be too tired for it right now. It is a mash of ethnicities and languages that I don't quite recognize. I went to the Hagia Sophia (around the corner from my hostel) and dissolved into a puddle of tears the moment I entered. It is grand, ornate, imposing, stunning - even now, I can't find the adjectives. I can only say that remembering that building causes a lump to form in my throat immediately. I'm going to get dinner and wait for my friend.

Point of note: the Heathrow Express from Paddington Station does not run 24/7. The first train departs at 5:10 a.m. and then stops a bit before midnight. Anyway, I now have some time to kill before catching that train.

My last night in Stratford with Yoli was punctuated by a thunderous crash of books. During a scene change in the RSC's production of The Winter's Tale, bookcases tip and empty their contents onto the stage. It's a spectacular sight and if anyone is planning to see it, then I've just completely ruined the moment for you. While knowing that the books will fall and actually seeing it happen are two very different things, the element of surprise cannot be denied. It was a thoroughly enjoyable production, full of choices that I questioned at times, but ultimately a lot of fun to watch.

We went out for afternoon tea, which was very filling. British dairy is on my good list right now. Clotted cream on the tea cake. Whipped cream in the Eton mess (broken up meringues mixed with cream and strawberries). Good yogurt.

In a few hours, I fly to Istanbul. This has yet to sink in. It is a city with incredible history, religious, imperial, commercial. It has come up in my education only obliquely, usually by another name. I know that there are mosques and palaces to see. There is a large body of water that seems to provide some kind of orientation. I know it's one of the largest, busiest, hyper cities in the world. I just don't know quite what to expect, except that I will be overwhelmed. I'm excited to get to the centre of things and just take a very deep breath. I'm waiting for the moment when I realize where I am.

We ended up in a rowboat on the Avon river. The oars didn't fasten to the pivots, making it awkward and difficult to row with purpose. That being said, we're now significantly more tan and had a very good time watching the swans and trying, more or less successfully, to avoid collisions. At the end, we got an attendant to take a photo. Note that Yoli's leg is aglow. Sunblock. We used it. 

At the moment, rugelach is baking, and Yoli is working on an oven face tan. Meaning she's sitting in front of the oven, watching the pastry turn golden brown and puffy. It smells like Jewish heaven.

Yoli has allowed this week to revolve around food. It has been a good week. I tried a salad with chicken livers, which was definitely tasty. There was a biscuit at some point with jam. Last night was roast chicken and potatoes followed by tiramisu. The British could reestablish world dominance by harnessing the power of double cream. It makes tiramisu easy and silky. And today, it's Shavuot, which celebrates the receiving of the Torah. Coincidentally, Yoli has matzo ball soup and rugelach on the menu. I think I'm going to try to finagle a quiche out of the deal as well. 

In our defense (if it's necessary), we've had a lot of exercise. We've walked a lot (without quite hiking) and this morning, we went to the gym. Yoli did a step class and I jumped in the pool. There were a lot of young children with their parents and I was befriended by a little boy who decided that we could dive together. 

We're now showered and dressed and therefore going out for coffee. 

This merry-go-round horse was in the Museum of Childhood in Edinburgh. That place is a bit like my fantasy world under lock and key. I've never been one for video or computer games, I played Rock Band (it may have been Guitar Hero - I don't know the difference) for the first time last month, and I have yet to touch a Wii. If, however, you place me in the vicinity of a train set, top, blocks, or a playground, I can be entertained for hours, as I was in this museum. One of the problems that arises from the combination of traveling alone and disliking posed photos is that there aren't many photos of me on excursion. Even with other people, I tend to be the one holding the camera. This, I thought, was a fine solution. I want this horse. Also, it appears I hold my zoom lens like a cup of tea. 

The aforementioned posed photo in Trafalgar Square. Lord Nelson's Column immediately behind us and down Whitehall/Parliament Street over my right shoulder, Big Ben. Despite it being the sunniest, warmest day (Katherine on the right is wearing two sweaters layered - she regretted this), we're in shadow. I find this amusing.

There is such a thing as too much caffeine. Three lattes and two diet cokes constitutes an excess. I went to bed at 1 a.m. and was still very awake at 4. I finished three crossword puzzles and read the entire Rick Steves Istanbul. It was a pity since it was my first night at Yoli's in Stratford-upon-Avon and it had been a long day. 

We spent it in London. I had a plan to meet Yoli (my former roommate) and Matt at the British Museum at 1:30 (I imagine that if I lived in London, I would arrange to meet everyone at the BM). I like surprises and had arranged for a couple other school friends to see Yoli at the museum. She knew that Jess was in London, but was completely unaware of Katherine. We all ended up having a picnic in a sunny park and then having a quick peak at the National Gallery. I've never liked taking posed touristy photos, but the rarity of having us all in London meant that I insisted on a photo in Trafalgar Square. 

The bus back to Stratford was not quite comfortable. We were stuck in traffic, the air conditioning was spotty and there was an unfortunate bathroom smell permeating...everything. However, Yoli and Matt had just purchased a Travel Scrabble, so we were entertained. 

Today, I met Barry the Butcher, in downtown Stratford, which consists of a couple main streets. We bought lamb shanks and sausages, the former of which we slowly braised in wine, tomatoes, and anchovies and then ate with couscous and broccoli for dinner. We're currently attempting to make molten chocolate cakes that are actually molten. The first batch was really soft cake but didn't have any gooey centre. In the midst of all the food, we've taken a couple walks, first to Anne Hathaway's cottage and the second across the river to play mini-golf. We didn't get to play though. It turns out this course requires people to bring their own clubs and balls. Odd, no? And we took part in a movie quiz that focused quite a lot on the X-Files, the television show. This, we agree, is not a legitimate category for a MOVIE quiz. British trivia nights are entertaining and I got to meet some of Matt and Yoli's schoolmates. (By the by, the emcee was much more sober than Smithy)

I'll post photos tomorrow.

I feel too at home. This is more of a statement of fact than a complaint. Backpacking is how I try to get away from familiarity and easy comfort but being in Edinburgh has foiled those plans. Castles are supposed to intimidate and impose on you, but here they make me feel safe and oriented. The showers are piping hot, the beds are soft, and everyone has gone out of their way to welcome me. My life is so hard...

Whit took me to an Indian buffet for lunch - it was fantastic. The butter chicken was smokier and sweeter than what I usually have at home, the dhal was creamy and reeked of cumin (ideal), and the saffron rice had so much saffron. I was impressed. The other excellent food of the day: battered Mars Bar. I'd intended to have one last night, but ended up on another adventure walk instead. This evening, Whit's friend Linda and I split a Mars and a Snickers. We agree that the Mars is a thousand times better, even though the Snickers is very good. Mars just gets creamy and soft as the marshmallow melts. It works really well with the crispy coating.

When I woke up this morning, I decided to read the Lonely Planet Edinburgh that was in my room. It described a walking tour through the New Town that would end in Stockbridge. While Stockbridge has no meaning to me other than being the origin of the turnpike in a James Taylor song, I knew the walk would be pleasant, so I copied the directions into my notebook and stuffed it in my back pocket. 40 minutes later, I no longer knew where I was going. The next street on my list was nowhere in sight and I was staring up the business end of an unfriendly incline. I really don't know why I thought that I could accurately read, write and brush my teeth at the same time, but I was very wrong. However, this is Edinburgh, so even when you're lost, you're still in the midst of old and ornate buildings whose worn edges can't help but capture you. You're also frequently just steps from a whisky shop. I enjoyed a tasting. I couldn't distinguish between anything, but by that point, I was really thirsty and was hoping that I'd get a glass of water to clear the palate. I entered the cheesemonger's shop next door and was plied with baguette and various cheeses, some of which made me want to gag, but one of which - a sweet and nutty triple cream brie - proved too good to have only one piece of. Despite this, I left quickly. The store smelled like feet. I returned to the hostel after almost four hours on my feet and in the sun and fewer than six hours of sleep. This is not a ratio I'd ordinarily recommend, but it was perfect for today.

Whitney's working another overnight shift so I'm staying up and keeping her company but a lot of people are up with her right now (just returned from a pub) so I get to come check my e-mail and update.

I took a free walking tour of Edinburgh this morning. In Spanish. It began at 11, which is when I woke up. This was apparently just a bit too late for the English tour, but I figured I could get along with the Spanish one. Not quite. I always knew where we were and could get the idea of what the guide was telling us about various statues and buildings, but I didn't find her as amusing as the Spaniards did. And Spanish Spanish is irritatingly different from what I became used to in Peru. However, there was an English couple who had no clue what was being said but just wanted to be told what to photograph. At the chamber of commerce, we all had to back up so a car could pass by. In the backseat was an older couple wearing mayoral or parliamentary medallions. They pulled up at the central door and when the lady got out of the car, she came over to us and apologized for having forced us to move for the car. The English couple and I said, "Oh, that's just fine," but I don't think the Spaniards understood what she had said because they all responded with "Hello!"

I went to three small museums today, in which I played with round dice, rode a rocking horse, and saw Robert Louis Stevenson's copy of Montaigne's Complete Works in French. Whitney took me to a great coffee shop where we sipped lattes and played Battleship. Her friend Chris took me on a bit of a hike up a mountain and didn't laugh too much when I wouldn't step near the edge of the path.

The day's highlight may have been my 1 p.m. meal. It wasn't lunch, because I'd missed breakfast. Baked potatoes are a big thing here. They cover them with random things - chicken salad, cheese, prawn and pasta... It all sounded kind of gross, which may be why I had to try the lunch special: meatballs. The man behind the counter put a massive pat of butter on the potatoes and then covered them with spicy meatballs. It is actually an amazing combination. I'll definitely make it when I get home.

In other news, it's a rugby weekend. The Heineken Cup is on (I don't know what this is) and this weekend is a French holiday so the hostel is full of French men who are all keen to get drunk but to remain perfectly polite and respectful in the process.

Whitney wants to take me to the Brass Monkey tomorrow. This, I've been told, is a "delectable" pub that has a mattress-filled room.

I'm in Edinburgh! It's stunning to step off a train and out of a station and see buildings that are simultaneously older and more elegant than you ever imagined and yet exactly as you thought they would be. There was a moment of knowing right where I was and realizing that this atmosphere and aesthetic are what everyone tries to replicate when they open a pub. I'm surrounded by the original.

I'm visiting Whitney, who has been living here since January. It's remarkable that she has made this place her home. She's living in a hostel where she works and while it's not a perfect situation -the kitchen and privacy are lacking - it is full of people who have become her family. She's working the overnight shift tonight and is currently in bed gearing up for it. I took a walk to buy some milk (take that, Alyssa. That was before I read your comment) and continued up the street about 20 minutes when it started drizzling. I ran back to the hostel to grab my camera - the combination of clouds and this architecture were too tempting, but when I got back outside, it was completely pouring, so I was forced to retreat and dry off the camera. Now, I'm watching Independence Day with the hostel pals.

During the walk, I saw a Hotel Ibis, which brought back a lot of memories. My parents, brother and I took a Christmas trip to London when I was ten. It was my first time in London and I loved the noise and lights and the feeling that everything was happening all at once everywhere. Also, my parents had both been to London before and directed us through the Tube, which I found fascinating, delicious steak (at the height of Mad Cow), awesome Chinese food (my father's demand), and a tour of the big sights. However, on New Year's Eve, we stayed at a Hotel Ibis. All I remember about it is that we could only get two twin beds, which we pushed together. I fell asleep before midnight and woke up in the morning in the crack and unable to move. I vaguely remember that the air conditioning was incapacitated and we were generally grouchy when we went to breakfast but we also had a really good laugh about it. The Hotel Ibis is my reminder that sometimes, travel sucks, but there's always a story (usually a funny one), a sense of survival that you earn, and a good point of reference from which to appreciate all the other great things that happen.

I picked up a tiny baby and it was love at first site. We have bonded over our mutual love of dancing, milk, and napping. As he sleeps, and the house is quiet, I thought it was a good opportunity to let everyone know I have arrived safely and this city is alternately pouring and grey. However, I have a rainjacket and waterproof shoes so all should be well.

The flight was amazing. Ordinarily, I wouldn't bother to mention it, but I was moved up to first class for reasons I don't particularly understand. Those pods are as ethereally comfortable as the commercials lead you to believe. I have no idea whether or not the flight was bumpy because I was fast asleep for the entire time that I was allowed to recline.

I could also share my itinerary, which is fairly loose. My aunt very kindly typed it up for me a couple weeks ago, but it's been modified since and will probably continue to change.
London 20 May 09 Travel into Scotland, Oxford, Stratford-Upon-Avon
Fly from London to Istanbul 31 May 09
Train to Thessaloniki 03 Jun 09
Zagreb/Dubrovnik 6 Jun 09
Budapest 9 Jun 09
Vienna 11 Jun 09 meet Alyssa (I actually don't remember if this is the day... But I know we're supposed to meet at the train station in the afternoon. Maybe.)

After Vienna, everything will be more organized, because Alyssa will actually be involved in the planning.

Today is May 18th, which is the day I (Kat) fly to Heathrow. Alyssa's not coming until June 5th so I'll be updating this all alone until she joins in. As I have yet to depart, I have no news, but I expect to notify everyone of my arrival later tomorrow.

Fun fact: I have packed one absolutely essential item, and I'm not referring to underwear. I found a deck of Obama Presidential playing cards. Its jokers are Bush and McCain.