I feel too at home. This is more of a statement of fact than a complaint. Backpacking is how I try to get away from familiarity and easy comfort but being in Edinburgh has foiled those plans. Castles are supposed to intimidate and impose on you, but here they make me feel safe and oriented. The showers are piping hot, the beds are soft, and everyone has gone out of their way to welcome me. My life is so hard...

Whit took me to an Indian buffet for lunch - it was fantastic. The butter chicken was smokier and sweeter than what I usually have at home, the dhal was creamy and reeked of cumin (ideal), and the saffron rice had so much saffron. I was impressed. The other excellent food of the day: battered Mars Bar. I'd intended to have one last night, but ended up on another adventure walk instead. This evening, Whit's friend Linda and I split a Mars and a Snickers. We agree that the Mars is a thousand times better, even though the Snickers is very good. Mars just gets creamy and soft as the marshmallow melts. It works really well with the crispy coating.